Pulque in Mexico: synthesis of medicinal and mythical properties
Since pre-Hispanic times in Mexico and to date, various species of agave have been used to extract mead (honey water). Once this sweet, coconut milk-like liquid is removed from the heart of the succulent and thus exposed to bacteria and yeast in the environment, it ferments and becomes slimy. Fermented mead is known as pulque. Throughout hundreds of years, and probably millennia, medicinal properties have been attributed to pulque, through myths passed down from generation to generation among indigenous peoples, and more recently as a result of scientific research (not without contraindications regarding the latter). . Unsurprisingly, the literature is not always consistent in both its factual foundations and its conjectures. However, a secular synthesis in summarized form does serve to illuminate.
Pulque, for a couple hundred years has been associated with an elixir for the masses, a mild intoxicant with healing powers. Driven by natural/organic and to a lesser extent the slow food movement, it has risen to fashion. Predominantly middle- and upper-class millennials living in Mexico’s largest urban centers like Monterrey, Puebla, Guadalajara, and, of course, Mexico City, flock to pulquerías. However, most of what is served is an adulterated form of pulque known as curados. A pulque base, sometimes even canned, is combined with a selection of processed fruits, grains, and/or vegetables, sugar or other sweetener, and sometimes milk/cream and/or a thickener such as cornstarch. These curados couldn’t be further from the real deal, and probably by the time they hit the table, any beneficial attributes, medicinal or otherwise, will have been long lost to commercial handling. However, the pulque available in bars and restaurants in cities close to the rural regions where the mead is extracted (ie Oaxaca, from the fields outside the town of Santiago Matatlán) is anything but 100% pure. The closer the cantina or dining room is to the field where the mead was harvested, the greater the chance that the pulque has not been bastardized and has retained its positive properties.
The wide diversity of microclimates in which agave species are grown suggests that the attributes of the resulting pulque must inevitably vary, sometimes significantly. And it is that, each species of plant in itself has a unique series of compounds, minerals, vitamins, etc., which are transformed in a different way. This depends on the sub-region of Mexico, as well as on the predominant bacteria at that time and, to a lesser extent, on yeasts in the environment. Agave species used to extract mead that have been reported in the literature include salmiana, americana, deserti, mapisaga, atrovirens, ferrox, and hookeri. Different roots, including and in particular the acacia (referred to in parts of the state of Oaxaca as timbre), have been routinely used to make pulque stronger, spicier, headier, or spicier. It also speeds up the fermentation process, especially during the cooler weather months. Such additions further alter the properties of the pulque.
The name pulque was probably derived from the Nahuatl word poliuhqui, meaning spoiled. During pre-Hispanic times, in many regions of the country, it was a drink reserved for high priests, warriors, and wise men. It was used ceremonially as part of the harvest celebration, to induce rain, as a way to honor certain gods, and during rites of passage such as marriage, birth, and death. Diverging rules abound as to the proper way to drink, and there is a plethora of myths as to its origins. But the national thread that unites them is their medicinal value. It should come as no surprise that pulque-drinking populations were generally immune to the cholera epidemic of the 19th century.
Pulque has been seen nationally as a healthy drink, a nutritional supplement. In areas of Mexico where there is a shortage of safe drinking water due to human or animal contaminants, it is used to quench thirst. But its constituent elements, including but not limited to iron, carotene, thiamine, folic acid, riboflavin, niacin, ascorbic acid, protein, calcium, magnesium, vitamin C, fiber, bioactive compounds, phosphorus, and ash, likely lead to its healing role. predominant. in traditional medicine and as preventive food.
Ask any tlachiquero (person who extracts the mead from the agave) in Santiago Matatlán, and he (or she, since at least in the state of Oaxaca producing pulque is a vocation not only reserved for men) will tell you that the Pulque is 100% natural in part since the only fertilizer, if any, used to stimulate agave growth is cow, sheep or goat manure and the mulch used is bagasse (waste fiber from the distillation of mezcal); and that pulque’s attributes include stimulating white blood cell production, being good for triglycerides, and controlling diabetes, especially if consumed first thing in the morning well before breakfast.
The cross-cultural literature based on studies from across Mexico provides a much broader story. Pulque has been used:
• in the treatment of gastrointestinal disorders, including ulcers and kidney infections
• as an aid to lessen general weakness of and in the body
• to combat loss of appetite and anorexia
• as a diuretic
• to improve relaxation before going to bed
• as an aid in the development of the fetus
• to stimulate milk production for lactating mothers
• as a means to reactivate lactation when touched with the lips of newborns
• for children based on its ability to promote muscle and bone formation.
Although the alleged use of pulque to stimulate fertility and improve sexual functioning does not appear to have any factual basis (except perhaps to the extent that alcohol consumption can have a positive impact on libido in some people), much of it above has been confirmed through scientific research. .
Although environmental yeasts play a role in the production of pulque, particularly by apparently contributing to its foaminess, the literature most often refers to the bacterium of the species Zymomonas mobilis as the main stimulant that converts mead to pulque (and to pulque). to a lesser extent to bacteria of the genus Lueconostoc). Z. mobilis, found widely in the sap of sugar-rich plants, is extremely efficient at producing ethanol.
Several studies have shown growth-promoting effects in vitro due to various lactobacilli and bifidobacteria plus probiotic strains. This aids in the absorption of important minerals. Phytase is present, and arguably very important. It is a digestive enzyme. Some believe that it can bind to corn and increase the bioactivity of iron and zinc through metabolization. Phytase is a bacterium found in the intestines of cattle and sheep, but not normally found in humans, although there is evidence of its presence in vegans and vegetarians. Phytase breaks down into phytic acid. This has been implicated in DNA repair, clathrin-coated vestibular recycling, control of neurotransmission, and cell proliferation. Although animal nutrition research has suggested the value of supplementing feeds with phytase as an aid in the production of calcium, phosphorous, other minerals, carbohydrates, and protein, the implications for humans remain largely unknown and further study is required. .
By examining within the context of scientific research how and why indigenous populations have been using pulque for hundreds of years, we gain a better understanding of the actual validity and veracity of myths and beliefs about the curative properties of the ferment.
Scientific research confirms that consuming 850 ml of mead meets the human daily requirement for iron and zinc. Because it is an alternative source of FOS (fructooligosaccharide) prebiotic syrups, it improves calcium absorption in postmenopausal women and iron absorption in general. Its consumption has been suggested for the prevention of colon cancer. Pulque is known to contain steroidal saponins which have been studied for their medicinal uses including antispasmodic activity and toxicity to cancer cells. They have been described as the most important bioactive compounds of yams and several biological activities, such as anticancer, have been documented.
The melatonin content in pulque aids in relaxation in preparation for sleep. The probiotic potential of lactobacilli isolated from both mead and pulque provides a low cholesterol, non-dairy source alternative for those who are lactose intolerant. It is perhaps the food product with the highest dose and variety of potential probiotic microorganisms. A study in Valle de Solís, in the State of Mexico, found that pulque consumption resulted in a lower risk of hemoglobin insufficiency for pregnant women.
But just as the potential health benefits of pulque consumption have been difficult to assess and confirm for reasons some of which have been noted in this article, so have some of the contraindications. We do know that alcohol consumption can have harmful effects for pregnant women and their children, even with 6% pulque. But this must be balanced against consumption in areas where there are generally poor dietary habits or lack of availability of diverse vitamins and minerals through food. The literature does indicate that drinking pulque in low amounts helps the development of the fetus and increases milk production during lactation (it helps the mother absorb calcium).
In fact, pulque has a short shelf life due to room temperature and continuous contact with yeasts in the environment. The longer it is kept, the faster it turns sour. However, once essentially undrinkable, in parts of Mexico like Oaxaca it is used as the base to produce a refreshing drink known as tepache. Typically, tepache is prepared with pulque similar to vinegar, pineapple, and a derivative of sugar cane known as piloncillo or panela. It is not known if this drink retains some of the positive attributes of pulque.
For some, another issue is the lack of sanitation associated with mead and pulque. This can become evident if you have ever had the opportunity to participate in the extraction of mead from the agave and/or have consumed pulque in a town market. In my opinion, having been consuming both drinks for the past quarter century, this is not a problem. Commercially preparing pulque for sale in cans is one possible solution. Chemicals are added to stop fermentation. However, it is suggested that the benefits of pulque consumption will be long gone by the time canned pulque is drunk anywhere in the country or in US states where it is available for purchase, such as California, Arizona, and New Mexico.
Further study is warranted and requires to better understand the true benefits of pulque. But for now, subject to the documented risks associated with its consumption, it is suggested that the reported positive attributes should be enough to induce the reader to drink some pulque from time to time, and in the case of mead if in a region of Mexico where it is being harvested fresh from the agave.