Bass Fishing with Tubes: The Texas Twist

We all know how effective fished tubes can be on internally weighted heads. The fact is that if you only use them this way, you are seriously hindering the true potential of this bait and its versatility. I discovered, many years ago, that fishing for a tube in algae-filled waters was a great way to catch fish. The problem I encountered was that the open hook continually and mercilessly hooked throughout the day. To combat this, I simply tried to mount the tube to a Texas rig. Ultimately, I settled on a brass and glass deck which has always given me good results. This rig combines sexy tubes, scent, and sound to form a complete bass package that turns heads.

Equipment: 6-6 medium fast action spinning rods. The best rods for this method are high modulus models with a solid backbone. I use a Kistler Helio LTA 6-6 He66MS. This rod gives me light overall weight and a smooth tip, but also the brute force of a gorilla to pull the biggest bass into the boat. You don’t fish delicately, you say? Well consider that I normally use an 8lb line and occasionally drop it down to a lighter 6lb Yo Zuri Hybrid. Even on the thickest cover, I’ve managed with the lightest lines. You can use a 20lb super line like Sea King’s 20/6 or 14/4. These will help cut through vegetation with ease. I prefer a fairly quick real relationship. For tubes I choose Shimano, no wonder Sustain 2500 FD. This real is as dependent as they come.

Terminal Tackle: My tube rig works best with brass Weenie weights. I like the 1/16 or 1/8 Top Brass Tackle Weenie weights painted black. The weenie weight is simply a shorter, wider sliding bullet weight that is made from brass. This produces much better sound amplification and is environmentally friendly. For hooks, I use a Sugoi 3/0, 3/0 Owner Rig n hook, or a Gamakatsu EWG 3/0. What sets this method apart from standard Texas equipment is that I use a faceted fire-polished glass bead. This accomplishes two things. First, the bead reflects light and flashes. I really think this is one of the best attributes of the platform. Second, the weenie’s bill and weight move from side to side, sometimes attracting fish to its location. Faceted and fire polished glass beads are super hard and will not cut your line.

The Tube: The ONLY tube I use is a Wicked Tube from Micro Munch Tackle. This bait is a thick-walled, hand-dipped tube that holds the hook very well. The double wall thickness gives the tube durability and is necessary in the thick jacket to prevent tearing. The fish don’t cling to the bait, they eat it. This tube is dipped in a salt-impregnated plastic mix and then the Kick N Bass scent is added to the plastic before the tubes are molded. This produces a tube that is noticeably stinky.

This tube mounted on a 3/0 Sugoi hook has served me well in almost every tournament I’ve fished. If you’ve been paying attention so far, you’ll notice that this team employs sight, smell, taste, and sound to tempt Mr. Bass. If you have ever fished with the Wicked Tube you will surely have noticed the oil stain that the bait produces in the water. Their scent will make every cat in the neighborhood cling to your dry storage box to get to them. I prefer the standard 4″ tube, but occasionally upgrade to the larger El Gordo style tube. This is a quad dip tube that is extremely durable and adds incredible volume. It’s really different and I think that’s why it works ok for me.,not many other anglers cast it regularly.Its size alone may intimidate some.I have noticed it catches larger fish as well.

Colors: I prefer the following colors; Green Pumpkin, Black Grape, Water Melon Magic, June Bug, Smoke Purple Flake, Road Kill Camo, and Black Red Flake. I match the glass bead to the bait. Black, brown, purple, or green beads will match all of the colors listed above.

Rig: This rig can be configured like the traditional Texas rig. Slide the Weenie scale up the line followed by the glass bead. No need to set weight or count. Next, tie the hook with a Palomar knot to give it strength. Bury the point of the hook around a 1/4-inch dead center in the pipe head. Pull the hook through the side of the bait until the hook eye enters the tube head. Then put the hook back on the side and pull the point through the opposite side of the tube (out again). The tube must be straight. The tip of the hook should be exposed and snug against the fleshy side of the tube. The exposed tip allows for easier penetration into the hook set. The hook does not have to penetrate the extra plastic of the tube, so it sticks in the fish’s mouth with minimal effort.

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“With this rig, I usually notice one of two things: either I feel the bass chewing on the tube, similar to a plastic worm, or I don’t feel the bait at all, which means a bass has picked it up.” and he’s usually going with it.”

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The presentation

This tube is very effective in 8 feet of water or less. Its light weight will not allow you to fish effectively beyond that depth. Because it is weedless it can be fished almost anywhere and if you add a heavier weight you can surely plumb the depths with it. I prefer docks, boathouses, any upper decks, entry points, and floors. Of course, the platform will work anywhere as long as shallow cover can be found. The rig works when going under or through the deck. This is what differentiates the equipment from conventional tube equipment. The tube itself is weightless. When cast, Weenie’s weight falls off the bait and slowly drifts to the bottom. The tube flutters to the bottom even slower. His slow descent is a crucial trait for his success. Standard tube decks that have an internal weight coiled to the bottom.

They are directly weighted and fall through the entire strike zone faster than the Texas rig. As the weight of the Texas tube rig slides forward, it slowly pulls on the bait. This is why I don’t use baitcasting equipment. Flipping and throwing are not accurate introductions for this team. I like to jump my bait past the target so it slowly falls through cover. After casting to a piece of cover, I try to keep a tight line because very often the bait is hit just as it enters the water. If I don’t feel a shock, then I can shake the tip of the rod so that the heel and weight make some noise. Then I let the tube drop in a controlled slack line and cover the bottom column of the water I’m working with.

I do not fish this bait in open water as I would prefer internally mounted tubes for that. I aim for a specific visible cover and try to separate it as best I can despite the “falling off cover” action the bait has. Getting the bait to pop is the true art of accurate presentation with this rig. Sometimes I try to make the bait crash through the cover so that it actually goes through my target. This is because a forceful cast will not allow the weight to create drag on the cast and keeps the bait on target. The bait will pass through the cover and stay in the strike zone longer. You may also be able to fletch a jump cast to put the bait right on target. The 1/16 oz weight will not pull the bait as much as a heavier size.

Make the brass weight and glass work to produce some sound. I move the tip of the rod very slightly, maybe just an inch or two at a time. You don’t want to exaggerate your movements too much. Slight movements are key because you don’t want to physically move the bait while trying to sound it.

The bite: Many tube bites just feel like a soft, wet rag at the end of the line sensation. With this rig, I usually notice one of two things: either I feel the bass chew through the tube, similar to how a plastic worm does, or I don’t feel the bait at all, which means a bass has picked it up and usually moving with him. This happens because the tube is weightless and the bass doesn’t feel resistance in the form of an unnatural internal weight. Normally the line will start to move. Polarized sunglasses are essential for this technique. It is important with this and most other template techniques to “weigh the line”. What this means is learning how the bait feels in the water. Usually any lighter or heavier sensation is a hit. When I spot a hit, I really like to spin the hook. Even though I tend to use a light line and adjust my drag, I rarely step on a fish. Normally if I hang a monster I will decouple the anti-reverse and rear spool. I use a sweep set as this allows me to move more line than the standard over the shoulder jig jerk. I am not exaggerating when I say that the fish do not spit the tube. They just don’t. They really eat it.

Seasons

The Texas drill pipe sticks out during early spring and into early fall. I just prefer to catch other baits at different times of the year. It is an excellent attractor for large fish because it has a thick profile and does not give off many, if any, negative signals. Armed with a glass bead, it appeals to all the serious senses, and as I said before, “These tubes are eaten.” The combination of salt and aroma is hard for any sea bass to turn down.

Gear Breakdown: Texas Tube Fishing Madness

Rod: Kislter Helio LTA 6-6M He66MS

Reel: Shimano Sustain FD 2500

Line: Yo Zuri Hybrid 8lb

Hook: Sugoi or Gamakatsu 2/0 or 3/0 EWG

Tube: 4″ Micro Munch Tackle Wicked Tube

Terminal: Top Brass Tackle Brass Weight and Fire Polished Faceted Glass Bead

Alternatives

Texas drill pipe is a very consistent producer. If by any chance the bottoms want a different look, there are several alternatives. I’m a big fan of West Coast delicate techniques. My tube sleeper deck is the same deck, but with the heel nailed 18 inches above the hook. The sinker can still slide freely and a flashy fish won’t feel any extra weight. This rig can be slipped off the bottom similar to a Carolina rig. This is a noisy presentation as the heel and weight are always in contact.

We all know that tubes are very versatile. I have used these tubes to work bass on inside and outside grass lines with incredible consistency over the past few seasons. This is one of those great baits that no one should be without. It can be especially important for guys who don’t prefer to launch a template.

copyright 2005 Micro Munch Tackle

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